L/C 100 Series Electrical Problems

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It is possible that it is not a blown fuse but rather a failed connection.
Vibration from the corrugations could be the reason.
The list of inoperable devices are unlikely to be from the one fuse but could share a common feed. Note that they are all ignition dependant.
Beyond that, I could only help by physical inspection and testing. Sorry.

Bosun
A mate of mine has one but I haven't taken particular notice if it has fusible link units attached to the + battery terminal for major feeds. 60's did have.
If it has one or more fusible links, usually identified by a connection to battery and a short length of, what looks like wire, then a connector, it is probably a fusible link. They can fracture due to repetitive movement and show little or no signs of damage.
To test one, remove the connector and you should have power at the connector end of it.
Alternatively the physical test of stretching it should see the link become longer and some thinning of the insulation plastic where it has broken. If so a wire of lesser dia/strands can be replacing it in the short term provided there are no short circuits currently (no pun) happening .

There may be damage to other devices. unlikely but possible.

In much older Toyotas a fusible link blowing would leave the alternator not connected to battery but to the electrical system only. One I had blow and the resulting voltage spike caused the alt reg to fail, the radio fuse blew, both high beam headlights, the electronic ignition and wiper delay unit, all at once.A Fun time.

Chech the relays are all locked in firmly. Maybe swap the ignition/acc relays with other same number relays.

Thats a common symptom of a blown alternator in the 100s

I'll only start and be driveable till your battery flattens..

Check the wiring loom that runs over the steering column. common fault with 100 series. a wire will short out after wearing through the insulation. Often the engine won't start.

A lot of very interesting responses on here :)

I own a 100 IFS as a daily
Have chased many electrical issues

Maybe start with some better diagnostics.... or info for us

Separate both batteries and measure voltage or each separately
(no real reason, its just a good place to start)

Measure the output voltage off all fuse able links from passenger side battery

Start vehicle and re measure voltage on all fuse able links
(once alternator has engaged, a few revs might help)

Report back with findings

I had all those same problems recently and it turned out to be the alternator had failed and voltage was low enough to cause all sorts of weirdness.

Got an ebay 140A alternator for peanuts and yes, it's still going OK after a month hehe.

Thanks guys for your help - we soldered a wire across the fusible link which got us back to Broome.
My friend picked up his 100 series from the auto elec yesterday - a blown diode was the culprit - $850 later with a new alternator has fixed his problem!
Cheers